What would you pay for a "built" HP30?

[Cavasar]

more than a little off what the OP's original question was. Apologies to the OP.

Cavasar, am I reading the info on that hp30 right? One chromoly shaft?

Texasfrog, I am not arguing the undisputed strength of a one-ton axle. You seem to be taking this rather personal. If I am correct the OP is a local TAMU student and both built 44 and 60 are well out of range.

In response to "your broken junk", I've wheeled around the country and have yet to block a trail? I have been blocked by two extremely built power wagons on 60's who both had snapped shafts. We went around, in our "junk".

I think it is just one chromo shaft, but to me that isn't a big deal. I'd just wheel those shafts until I snapped one and then buy a new set of chromos or RCVs depending where I am financially at the time. I'm a Blinn student, but yes a 60 is out of my range.

Cavasar,
I wouldn't pay more than $500 for that axle and the steering components.

Yes, it is a high pinion 30 and the ring and pinion will hold up to more than a low pinion 30, but its at least 15yrs and you can't recoup basic maintenance costs (seals, bearings, balljoints). The fact that the seals and bearings were replaced after the re-gear is a red flag for me, and I would be very suspicious of the quality of work done on the axle. Other things to consider, is this your daily driver, and if it is do you want a Heim based steering set up on your daily driver; TJ pitman arms don't have a lot of meat on them and someone has drilled this one out, a new replacement is about $50 (I would buy an SJ drop pitman arm, same drop as a stock TJ or XJ but significantly beefier). And a final note, junk yard pricing: Dana 30s runs about a $100, Dana 44s $2-300, and Dana 60s are $250-1,000; personally my Dana 44 cost me $250 and I paid $550 for a pair of front Dana 60s.

Please remember everyone in this thread has their own preferences, experiences, and unique driving style.

Yea I had decided I didn't want the RK steering and would replace it with the Currie steering. I would think to go ahead and replace the seals and bearings when doing a re-gear like he did is normal. If I don't buy this one I would go to the junk yard and buy one for ~$100, then factor in the cost of re-gear, ball joints, seals, etc and it gets up there. This one is already my gear ratio and I could sell either his Lockrite or my Aussie to re-coup a bit of the cost.

I just want to thank everyone for their opinions in this thread.