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Thread: What would you pay for a "built" HP30?

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    Cavasar's Avatar
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    What would you pay for a "built" HP30?

    I am looking at swapping out my LP30 for a HP30 and down the road would need to re-gear it to 4.56 when I move up to 35s. I've been talking to a guy that is moving up to bigger axles and he gave me a list of what he has into his. It is already geard to 4.56 which means I wouldn't have to re-gear it later, saving the cost of install kit and labor. What do you think it is realistically worth?

    HP30 housing, non-vac
    4.56 Alloy USA gears
    Lockrite
    Solid diff cover
    Alloy USA axle seals
    All new seals and bearings in fall 2011
    New ball joints spring of 2012
    Rock Krawler X-Factor style steering
    TJ pitman arm drilled out to 5/8" for bolt and heim
    Yukon driver side inner shaft (according to previous owner)
    New spicer U-joints in axle shafts in Dec 2013
    Quite a few spare sets of shafts
    Blaine sway bar brackets welded to inner Cs
    LCA skids welded on
    I still have my LP30 if you wanted the knuckles or anything for TREs since the ones I have now are drilled for 5/8" bolts.

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    texasfrog's Avatar
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    about half what he paid labor and parts.

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    Cavasar's Avatar
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    I offered him $500 and he said he'd take $600 minus the RK steering. I'll get it once he finishes building up his new axle and pulls the HP30 out from under his TJ. I'll add Currie steering when I get it.

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    Wow! $500 for a 30? That kind of cheese is built 44/ stock 60 territory.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Full Tilt View Post
    Wow! $500 for a 30? That kind of cheese is built 44/ stock 60 territory.
    No it's not lol. Add another zero for built 44 territory

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    texasfrog's Avatar
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    someone is in for a rude awakening!
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    "Just because someone goes fast doesn't mean you should do whatever you think they did.
    This path assumes they knew what they were doing, which isn't necessarily the case. Take this path and you will be guaranteed second place."

    Originally Posted by PondSkum
    I'm just a floater.

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    Mudhog1977's Avatar
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    Well you can buy a pro rock 44 for around $2500 or a pro rock 60 for around $6000, I think if you bought either from a junkyard and built it yourself you can build it way cheaper, if I'm not mistaken he probably has at least $400 just in the gears and lockrite and I'm low ball in big time, just my opinion
    Live to ride, Ride to live ,That's how I roll

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudhog1977 View Post
    Well you can buy a pro rock 44 for around $2500 or a pro rock 60 for around $6000, I think if you bought either from a junkyard and built it yourself you can build it way cheaper, if I'm not mistaken he probably has at least $400 just in the gears and lockrite and I'm low ball in big time, just my opinion
    I guess I have a different definition of a "built" axle. A prorock 44 is around $2500 but add gears, arb, synergy balljoints, Reid knuckles, and rcvs, and you're at $5k

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    Cavasar's Avatar
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    I wouldn't mind going for a HP44 but I'm not going to go bigger than 35s. If I go with this HP30 I'll only need to re-gear the rear axle to 4.56. Then again I do already have an Aussie for the 30 (I'd be selling the Aussie or Lockrite if I go with this HP30) so I could pick up an HP out of a junk yard and do the ball joints and CA skids and have it re-geared + chromo shafts at the same time.

  10. #10
    texasfrog's Avatar
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    the 44 will not be much better than your 30. A 60 or even a custom 14 bolt would be called for anything over a 35" tire unless your just playing in mud.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    "Just because someone goes fast doesn't mean you should do whatever you think they did.
    This path assumes they knew what they were doing, which isn't necessarily the case. Take this path and you will be guaranteed second place."

    Originally Posted by PondSkum
    I'm just a floater.

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