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Thread: What would you pay for a "built" HP30?

  1. #21
    Cavasar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ExpoLj View Post
    more than a little off what the OP's original question was. Apologies to the OP.

    Cavasar, am I reading the info on that hp30 right? One chromoly shaft?

    Texasfrog, I am not arguing the undisputed strength of a one-ton axle. You seem to be taking this rather personal. If I am correct the OP is a local TAMU student and both built 44 and 60 are well out of range.

    In response to "your broken junk", I've wheeled around the country and have yet to block a trail? I have been blocked by two extremely built power wagons on 60's who both had snapped shafts. We went around, in our "junk".
    I think it is just one chromo shaft, but to me that isn't a big deal. I'd just wheel those shafts until I snapped one and then buy a new set of chromos or RCVs depending where I am financially at the time. I'm a Blinn student, but yes a 60 is out of my range.


    Quote Originally Posted by JTM View Post
    Cavasar,
    I wouldn't pay more than $500 for that axle and the steering components.

    Yes, it is a high pinion 30 and the ring and pinion will hold up to more than a low pinion 30, but its at least 15yrs and you can't recoup basic maintenance costs (seals, bearings, balljoints). The fact that the seals and bearings were replaced after the re-gear is a red flag for me, and I would be very suspicious of the quality of work done on the axle. Other things to consider, is this your daily driver, and if it is do you want a Heim based steering set up on your daily driver; TJ pitman arms don't have a lot of meat on them and someone has drilled this one out, a new replacement is about $50 (I would buy an SJ drop pitman arm, same drop as a stock TJ or XJ but significantly beefier). And a final note, junk yard pricing: Dana 30s runs about a $100, Dana 44s $2-300, and Dana 60s are $250-1,000; personally my Dana 44 cost me $250 and I paid $550 for a pair of front Dana 60s.

    Please remember everyone in this thread has their own preferences, experiences, and unique driving style.
    Yea I had decided I didn't want the RK steering and would replace it with the Currie steering. I would think to go ahead and replace the seals and bearings when doing a re-gear like he did is normal. If I don't buy this one I would go to the junk yard and buy one for ~$100, then factor in the cost of re-gear, ball joints, seals, etc and it gets up there. This one is already my gear ratio and I could sell either his Lockrite or my Aussie to re-coup a bit of the cost.

    I just want to thank everyone for their opinions in this thread.

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by texasfrog View Post
    the 44 will not be much better than your 30. A 60 or even a custom 14 bolt would be called for anything over a 35" tire unless your just playing in mud.
    Going to disagree here on the 44 vs. 30 statement. Have you seen the size of the pinion gears on a 30? You're asking for trouble if you want to gear down to anything respectable.

    Axle tubes, gear, and carrier sizes are all a BIG improvement over the 30. If you're spending $500 on an axle, your money will go a lot farther in terms of a mildly built 44 or a stock 60. I know you say you will just fix it when it breaks, but I like to build my stuff so that I don't have to worry about it breaking. Nothing is more frustrating than not being able to drive off the trail because you wanted to save some money in the short run. Consider the total cost of ownership of running a 30 vs. running a 44/60.

  3. #23
    Cavasar's Avatar
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    I also plan on sleeving and gusseting it, but really a D60 is way bigger than I need. 35s are the highest I will have on this Jeep.

  4. #24
    JTM's Avatar
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    You'll be fine with the D30, but I'd still keep a spare driver's side assembly in the jeep when you go wheeling.
    Justin
    TMTC Representative
    88 XJ - Dana 44s and jack stands

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