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Thread: My MB build

  1. #21
    texasfrog's Avatar
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    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    "Just because someone goes fast doesn't mean you should do whatever you think they did.
    This path assumes they knew what they were doing, which isn't necessarily the case. Take this path and you will be guaranteed second place."

    Originally Posted by PondSkum
    I'm just a floater.

  2. #22
    Rooney77's Avatar
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    Well after getting the motor slung inbetween the frame rails there were obvious issues with the compressor and axle as well as the intake and the hood. So after some searching I found a guy on a TDI forum who is modding my intake to shorten it, delete the EGR and still retain the anti-shudder valve (prevents diesel run away). I shipped that out this morning to him. I was able to delete the compressor with a custom idler pulley/tensioner bracket I made. Both mods will net me about 7" between the motor and the front pumpkin. So off to the pics.

    First up, I had a heck of a time finding a suitable radiator. The VW has both hoses coming out of what is now the driver's side of the block so I had to find a rad with both intake/output on the driver's side. I finally found one that would fit between the headlights on the MB grill. Success, until I had to mount it. So the first pics are of my rad mount.







    Once I got that done I decided to take my cooling system from this:


    to this:


    By eliminating all the yellow junk on this:


    All the remaining hoses you see are the vacuum hoses. Those will all be replaced/rerouted/cleaned up once I get it in the engine bay.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1980 cj5, full metal cloak, 4.0, 4:1 d300, 33" tsl, widetracks

  3. #23
    Rooney77's Avatar
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    Well at this point I'm still waiting on my adapter to mate my T176 to the back of the TDI. I got my box4rocks kit and have got it installed on the NP231 to mate with my Dana 300 with 4:1 and twin stick. Who says 90HP won't be enough . FYI, I plan on installing a kit that will put me at 150HP and 345ft/lbs. That's V8 territory of torque and all from a motor weighing less than 400lbs.

    Since I don't have the adapter kit yet, I decided to atleast tackle the motor mount plates, those attached to the engine. There aren't a whole lot of options in this department since the TDI is only used in front wheel drive applications. So I had to start from scratch and make my own. At this point all I have completed is the motor plates. I can't really position the motor till I get the kit so I'm at a bit of a stand still with the mounts. For bushings I'll be using some mid 70's Mercedes 300D mounts.

    Passenger side:



    Driver's side: (not 100% happy with it but it will work and not be seen so I'll let it slide)



    Now those of you who have been paying attention may have noticed the change in position of the turbo. Well the turbo and exhaust manifold are integral. Which seemed to be a problem since the output was right where my motor mount needed to be. Well after a little head scratching and a lot of beer, I realized I could clock it....:homer:, so here's the before and after.

    1980 cj5, full metal cloak, 4.0, 4:1 d300, 33" tsl, widetracks

  4. #24
    Rooney77's Avatar
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    Well at this point I have removed my compressor but was still at a huge stand still trying to figure out how to reroute the serpentine belt. I had a great idea but it would reverse rotate the alternator. Not a problem in a gas motor but the diesel alternator has a clutched pulley since the motor doesn't spin at a consistent rpm, AKA won't spin in reverse. So I had been mulling this one over for a while. When I saw the perfect solution. I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out. Pic one is a diagram of the stock configuration with my hen scratching attempts at picking a new route. I set it up to use an off-the-shelf belt from any auto parts store. This way at least one piece of this rig will be easily replaced. The rest are pretty self explanatory.





    edit: Yes the top slot is slanted. This was on purpose so that as the bracket slides up the top moves away from the timing belt cover. Gave me an extra 1/8" of sliding movement.

    Now you have to remember that the compressor actually hung lower than the oil pan. And the pumpkin basically wanted to live in the same location as the compressor. So this gave me a ton of extra room and with the intake mod I'll be able to move the motor up a few inches higher. Assuming I designed the mod correctly (fingers crossed).

    That pretty much catches ya up. Doesn't seem like much but since this motor is practically unheard of in jeeps there just isn't much, if any, available info so I'm having to research my butt off, head scratch and fab/scrap/refab a bunch of stuff. Such is life. I hope a flatty pulling mid 30's mpg will end up worth it.

    At the moment, I'm waiting on my bellhousing, HPA adapter kit and flywheel adapter to show up so I can get the motor positioned and all my drivetrain mounts made. Then the fun stuff, the rear 4 link and front 3 link. Aaaah so much to do and so little money.

    - - - Updated - - -

    As a point of reference, here is what I was dealing with between the axle and compressor.

    1980 cj5, full metal cloak, 4.0, 4:1 d300, 33" tsl, widetracks

  5. #25
    Rooney77's Avatar
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    Sold some more parts from the beetle donor so I'm off to order a 3 link front and some air shocks from Dynamic.
    1980 cj5, full metal cloak, 4.0, 4:1 d300, 33" tsl, widetracks

  6. #26
    Mudhog1977's Avatar
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    looking good!
    Live to ride, Ride to live ,That's how I roll

  7. #27
    Rooney77's Avatar
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    Got my doubler mocked up. I mismeasured originally so it looks like my drivetrain is an inch or two longer than expected. Which means my rear driveshaft is gonna be about 13" which is pretty dang short, even for a willys. So I'll most likely move my axle back another inch or two or mount my drivetrain at an angle.

    doubler.jpg
    1980 cj5, full metal cloak, 4.0, 4:1 d300, 33" tsl, widetracks

  8. #28
    Rooney77's Avatar
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    So I was sitting there staring at this thing yesterday, drinking a beer and scratching my head (pretty much where I'm stuck at till the HPA shows up) and was trying to find a way to get a longer driveshaft. I got to thinking, why couldn't I run my radiator on the side instead of behind the grill? I've got a 96 Taurus fan which can easily keep a v8 cool so I know I can pull the CFM. My fenders have no inner fenders since I cut them out to fix some rust so that means I can get the airflow in there to it. My concern is road debris, mud and rocks being thrown into when I'm out wheeling.

    So, any ideas on materials I could use to replace the inner fenders that will allow air flow and still offer some protection? Airflow vs protection is the issue. I'm not sure expanded metal will fit the bill.

    By moving the radiator/fan setup I can move my motor forward another 5-6".
    1980 cj5, full metal cloak, 4.0, 4:1 d300, 33" tsl, widetracks

  9. #29
    texasfrog's Avatar
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    Do you think you would have a problem with stuff getting thrown off the sides of the tire? I would think only when it gets thrown from the center. just a flap or shield at full tire lock and expanded metal for the rest??

    Natural air flow is almost non-existent when crawling anyway so the electric fan should be fine as long as there is no obstructions.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    "Just because someone goes fast doesn't mean you should do whatever you think they did.
    This path assumes they knew what they were doing, which isn't necessarily the case. Take this path and you will be guaranteed second place."

    Originally Posted by PondSkum
    I'm just a floater.

  10. #30
    Rooney77's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by texasfrog View Post
    Do you think you would have a problem with stuff getting thrown off the sides of the tire? I would think only when it gets thrown from the center. just a flap or shield at full tire lock and expanded metal for the rest??

    Natural air flow is almost non-existent when crawling anyway so the electric fan should be fine as long as there is no obstructions.

    Given that it will be basically right next to the driver's tire, assuming I'm going straight, debris shouldn't be an issue. Now when I'm turned I could see it possibly chunking something up. I'm planning on it being centered over the front axle, if I can. And it will also be back a couple of inches from where the inner fender would have been, if it had one, so that will help some too. I just don't want to limit airflow for the sake of protection but also don't want to go the other way. This will be daily driven, weather permitting of course.
    1980 cj5, full metal cloak, 4.0, 4:1 d300, 33" tsl, widetracks

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